{"id":61336,"date":"2025-05-07T12:34:13","date_gmt":"2025-05-07T11:34:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.outthere.travel\/?p=61336"},"modified":"2025-05-07T12:34:14","modified_gmt":"2025-05-07T11:34:14","slug":"swiss-rogue-andermatt-switzerland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.outthere.travel\/swiss-rogue-andermatt-switzerland\/","title":{"rendered":"Swiss rogue
Andermatt, Switzerland"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Long cherished by intrepid downhillers for its rugged terrain and exceptional snow record, Andermatt has a unique history that has enabled it to bend the tradition-bound rules of chocolate-box ski-resort development and become a worldly beacon of hedonism and indulgence.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We\u2019d only been in Andermatt an hour, having arrived in the comfort of Switzerland\u2019s first-class trains from nearby Zurich, yet I still sank gratefully into the fur-lined armchair next to the Cotton Club\u2019s glass-encased, wood-burning fire. My host, Norway\u2019s flamboyant Christian Marstrander, placed an espresso martini in front of me before dropping the keys to his vintage Porsche 911 next to it. \u201cYou\u2019d best take her for a spin before the sun goes down,\u201d he advised with a mischievous grin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Deciding against \u2018one for the road\u2019, I grabbed the keys and burnt rubber on the winding Alpine roads as the deep-blue sky transformed into a lurid blend of pink, lilac, orange and yellow above me. Who knew that ragging a Porsche in the Swiss<\/strong><\/a> Alps \u2013 quite literally following in the tyre tracks of Sean Connery\u2019s silver Aston Martin in the famous Goldfinger<\/em> car-chase scene \u2013 was the perfect antidote to a day\u2019s travel. I returned, exhilarated, for my martini \u2013 to find it already quaffed by my partner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A sumptuous blend of Mediterranean beach chic and Alpine hygge (think tactile cream fabrics, stripped-pine furniture and monochrome mountain photographs), the new venue is the hottest spot in Andermatt, and arguably all the Alps, for lunch and apr\u00e8s-ski, which segue effortlessly through to dinner and cocktails. A large south-facing terrace is dotted with custom-made timber gondolas, which serve as intimate dining spaces for up to four guests. The main attraction, however, is the 10m (32ft) wide, frameless, transparent geodesic dome (pictured, left<\/em>), which provides some 100 guests and the club\u2019s resident DJ with a sheltered dining (and dancing) space that remains viscerally connected to the spectacular mountain surroundings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This story first appeared in The Paris is Turning Issue<\/strong><\/a>, available in print and digital.

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Among fellow guests, all immaculately attired for the snow in cashmere, leather and fur, we feasted on eat-your-heart-out-Nobu sushi prepared with low-key ceremony at our table, washed down with vintage champagne. As DJ Dalibor Dadoff kept the vibe true to Cotton Club\u2019s Ibizan roots with a gently pulsating soundtrack, views of moonlit mountains and stars sealed a truly memorable evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A five-minute drive from the Cotton Club brought us back to the indulgent cocoon that is The Chedi Andermatt. It\u2019s likely that this \u00fcber-luxe Asian-meets-Alpine hotel is the only thing many travellers will so far have heard of in the historically unassuming Andermatt. Indeed, when the hotel opened in December 2013, it represented a pivotal moment for the community, which was balanced precariously on the edge of collapse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Encircled by mountains and wedged 1,440m (4,700ft) up in the Urseren valley, Switzerland\u2019s geographical heart, Andermatt is a natural crossroads, with mountain passes feeding in from the four points of the compass. First mentioned in writing in 1290 as A der matt (\u2018at the meadow\u2019), Andermatt was so prone to heavy snowfall and avalanches that 13th-century monks in the area called it \u2018the Valley of the Devil\u2019. Undeterred, the community developed over the centuries into a flourishing spa town, hosting intrepid tourists following the Gotthard Pass, including William Tell, Queen Victoria and Russian army general Alexander Suworow, many of whom stayed in the opulent Grand Hotel Bellevue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ironically, progress put paid to Andermatt\u2019s growth \u2013 the Gotthard Tunnel opened in 1882, delivering year-round access to the remote town while also rendering the scenic Gotthard Pass largely redundant. Tourism dried up and the Swiss Federal Army moved in, using Andermatt as a garrison town from 1885 to 2003.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the army recruits weren\u2019t building forts and hollowing out underground bunkers, they joined locals skiing and helped to build one of Switzerland\u2019s first ski lifts in 1937 on the gentle slopes of G\u00fctsch mountain, to the east of the town. In 1964 \u2013 the same year that Sean Connery burnt up the Furka Pass in his Aston Martin \u2013 a new cable car invited skiers to descend the sheer slopes of the 2,961m (9,715ft) high Gemsstock mountain, on Andermatt\u2019s western flank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Untamed skiing with a bunch of rowdy army recruits was an altogether different experience from quaffing champagne in the rarefied air of Swiss resorts such as St. Moritz and Gstaad, and by the time the army announced it would withdraw from Andermatt in the 1990s, the debt-heavy resort boasted a committed but tiny audience of international ski bums, in thrall to the near 1,500 vertical metres (5,000 vertical feet) of backcountry descents found off the snow-chocked Gemsstock, and the cheap and cheerful hostels dotting the sleepy main street. But the army\u2019s sale of 370 acres of land and withdrawal of 1,500 conscripts and associated income left the town\u2019s future looking bleak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Andermatt\u2019s unlikely saviour came in the form of Egyptian millionaire Samih Sawiris, developer of large-scale integrated international towns such as El Gouna on the Red Sea and The Cove in the UAE. Captivated by Andermatt, Sawiris determined to create his first European resort town here, proposing an ambitious plan that included six luxury hotels, 42 apartment buildings, shops, bars and restaurants, a concert hall and an 18-hole golf course. I met Sawiris in 2010 and, having known scruffy, sporty Andermatt since the 1980s, was left dubious by his characteristically flamboyant claim that \u2018Andermatt will be better than St. Moritz\u2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Three years later, I returned for the grand opening of The Chedi \u2013 and a generous portion of humble pie. Set by the railway, at the head of the old town and across the Reuss river from the 17th-century St Peter and Paul church, The Chedi was built on the site of the former Grand Hotel Bellevue \u2013 a resplendent phoenix rising from the ashes of Andermatt\u2019s turbulent history. Today, The Chedi\u2019s timeless grandeur, unrelenting luxury and jaw-dropping scale remain jaw-dropping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the first, critical piece in Sawiris\u2019s audacious Andermatt masterplan, The Chedi was instrumental in setting the tone for the town\u2019s future, both economically and aesthetically, its supersized Swiss-chalet silhouette also incorporating a sleek modern elegance that evokes the brand\u2019s Asian luxury origins. It\u2019s a quietly bold fusion that is carried through every detail of its low-lit interiors, which fuse lavishly Swiss use of natural Alpine materials and more fires than bedrooms (206 versus 118) with delicate latticed lamps and screens, floor cushions clustered around low tables and a spectacular Asian-inspired spa and vast indoor-outdoor pool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Its success was instant and, for the town, transformational. Suddenly, The New York Times<\/em> rated Andermatt up there with Aspen and the Vatican, including it in its list of \u201852 Places to Go in 2014\u2019. Samih Sawiris had delivered on his own hype and locals began gleefully dusting off their own hotels and restaurants to mine Andermatt\u2019s new-found vein of gold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This new direction also secured the town the status of world-class alpine luxury destination, whether visitors were there to ski or snowboard or just to drink in the breath-stealing views while being pampered to within an inch of their lives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s entirely possible to exist in the cosseting bubble of The Chedi and Cotton Club without even looking at a ski. And plenty of guests do precisely that. Glamorous types waft into breakfast on a cloud of Acqua di Parma and coordinating cashmere athleisure wear, hinting that they\u2019ve already engaged in some form of achingly on-trend exercise or will do so after their nutritious breakfast. Giving the fire-warmed Ski Lounge a wide berth, they breeze towards the gym and\/or spa before donning their Dior moon boots to hop on the gondola for lunch at the Michelin-starred The Japanese at G\u00fctsch (the mountain-top outpost of The Chedi\u2019s two-star Japanese restaurant) or hailing an electric car to the Cotton Club for lunch\/champagne-fuelled apr\u00e8s-(non\/)ski.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Not that these are the only luxury addresses in town. Beyond The Chedi is a vast new \u2018Reuss\u2019 town development of towering apartment blocks, the most significant portion of Sawaris\u2019s Andermatt masterplan, their dimensions echoing those of the army\u2019s imposing so-called peace barracks on Waffenplatz (\u2018Arms Square\u2019) at the base of the G\u00fctsch-Express gondola. Their scale is a little confronting, it\u2019s true, to visitors familiar with Switzerland\u2019s other headliner resorts, where strict controls restrict the scale and style of new construction. But tasteful design prevents them clashing too much with the charming tangle of narrow streets lined with centuries-old chalets that still form the heart of the old village. Their owners? An international smattering of mountain-lovers cannily taking advantage of a rare exemption from the restrictive Lex Koller law, which allows foreigners to buy property in Andermatt (but only until 2040, so get in quick if you fancy a slice).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Andermatt\u2019s fabled slopes, too, have seen massive investment, including from US mountain resort mega-corps Vail Resorts, which now includes Andermatt on its game-changing global season ticket, the Epic Pass. Some CHF200m have been poured into the improvement and expansion of the local ski area, including new train and lift links joining the slopes to those of neighbouring resorts Sedrun and Disentis. The result is a diverse ski area with 110 miles (180km) of pistes and even more off-piste terrain than the 90s freeriders used to flock here for, much of it accessible via lifts with little or no hiking required \u2013 and a deeply luxury-literate new international audience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To entice this new clientele further, swanky new on-mountain restaurants have popped up, such as the Michelin-starred G\u00fctsch by Markus Neff and Wachthuus, an elegantly renovated military weather station that serves excellent Swiss mountain classics such as r\u00f6sti and racletteschnitte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a similar story in the beautifully maintained old town, whose ancient timber chalets house traditional eateries such as Ochsen, Zum Schwarzen B\u00e4ren and Hotel Sonne, as well as quirkier spots like Di Alt Apothek and Vinothek 1620 (the year from which the intimate wine bar dates).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cornerstones of this global community are Cotton Club\u2019s husband-and-wife owners Christian and Merete Marstrander, who nowadays enjoy a scenic five-minute walking commute to work along the Reuss river when in town. The raw, high-altitude setting is a far cry from the couple\u2019s adopted home, Ibiza, and site of the original Cotton Beach Club, which they launched in 2013. The club quickly became the place for glamorous locals and visitors to eat, chill and party and, thanks to the Marstranders\u2019 effusive hospitality and inexorable energy, it quickly expanded to include a Cotton Supper Club, boat charters and villa rentals, and was subsequently complemented by Cotton Club Zakynthos and Cotton Club Mallorca.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Passionate skiers, the Marstranders were eager to add an Alpine outpost to their flourishing Cotton Lifestyle brand and, as Christian explains, \u201cAndermatt is unique in the Alps right now, in that it\u2019s not owned exclusively by a small group of local families, but is very welcoming to international newcomers\u201d. It\u2019s a vital benefit for the Norwegians, whose daughter Emily and partner George, the Greek co-owner of an acclaimed restaurant on Zakynthos, are part of the multicultural Cotton team.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a fan of Andermatt\u2019s under-the-radar charms since its freeriding rough-diamond days, I was reassured to hear that even the new breed of visitors is still feeling \u2013 and loving \u2013 the adventurous, frontier-skiing vibe that first gave its mountains cult international status. \u201cIt was funky \u2013 I didn\u2019t know if the trails were going to end up in a super-cute village or just take me off a cliff,\u201d I overheard a skier from Seattle saying. Another transatlantic guest, Mandy from Chicago, also put the resort\u2019s newly rarefied lifestyle \u2013 and often eye-watering Swiss prices \u2013 into an interesting perspective. \u201cIt was quicker for us to get here from Chicago than to reach our condo in Colorado. And it\u2019s such good value here compared with home.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That said, I was more than happy to be seduced by all that the new Andermatt has to offer. A four-hour Cotton Club lunch dissolved boozily into table-top dancing with our fellow diners, who included a multinational group of friends hailing from Poland, Portugal and Brazil. Even in the tiny Fondue-Burg, a one-man restaurant in the hamlet of Hospental (six minutes\u2019 drive from Andermatt), our host Sacha Ercolani explained that other guests that evening hailed from New York, Chicago and Colorado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Welcome to Andermatt 2.0 \u2013 a place to share a bottle of Clase Azul tequila with new best friends from across the world in a Norwegian-owned, Mediterranean-inspired club that serves exceptional sushi, Thai curry and Peking lamb. As I danced my ski boots off to Abba beneath the Alpine sun, George delivered a fresh bucket of champagne and opened his arms for a bear hug. Stepping into his cashmere embrace, I realised I was also wrapping my arms around the Cotton Club strapline, \u2018Andermatt is my home town\u2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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www.andermatt-sedrun-disentis.ch<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Photography by Martin Wabel, Michael Adair, Valentin Luthiger and courtesy of the Cotton Club and The Chedi Andermatt<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n<\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Long cherished by intrepid downhillers for its rugged terrain and exceptional snow record, Andermatt has a unique history that has enabled it to bend the tradition-bound rules of chocolate-box ski-resort development and become a worldly beacon of hedonism and indulgence. We\u2019d only been in Andermatt an hour, having arrived in the comfort of Switzerland\u2019s first-class trains from nearby Zurich, yet I still sank gratefully into the fur-lined armchair next to the Cotton Club\u2019s glass-encased, wood-burning fire. My host, Norway\u2019s flamboyant […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":117,"featured_media":61344,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2562,3147,4],"tags":[3720,1124,3721],"class_list":["post-61336","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-topography-homepage","category-tp-switzerland","category-topography","tag-andermatt","tag-switzerland","tag-the-chedi"],"yoast_head":"\nAndermatt serves as a worldly beacon of hedonism. 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